Yazgul Tirkishova, Chief Curator, State Historical and Cultural Reserve “Ancient Merv”
As you approach the Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar in the State Historical and Cultural Reserve “Ancient Merv” (Mary province, Turkmenistan), it’s impossible not to feel its primal power. It seems to rise organically from the earth itself, surrounded by gentle, sloping hills that resemble frozen waves. This first impression does not deceive: we stand not merely before a grand structure, but before a living embodiment of history, architectural brilliance, and the countless legends passed down through generations in this remarkable land.
In the 12th century, when this magnificent mausoleum was built, Merv was a true jewel of the East, one of the world’s largest and most prosperous capitals, and a center of culture and science known as “The Mother of the Cities of Khorasan.” Despite its majestic solitude today, the Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum was once an integral part of a grand architectural complex. Adjacent to the mausoleum once stood a monumental sultan’s palace and a splendid congregational mosque. Yet these structures could not withstand the ravages of time and the devastation of war. Today, only earthen mounds remain—mute witnesses to their former grandeur.
Remarkably, the mausoleum itself endured. It survived even the catastrophic Mongol invasions of the 13th century, when Genghis Khan’s forces erased the flourishing city from the map and destroyed the famed dam on the Murgab River, plunging the Merv oasis into two centuries of desolation. That this architectural colossus remained virtually untouched—save for the looting of the tomb—is nothing short of extraordinary. Perhaps the invaders, awed by its majestic simplicity and solemn power, chose to spare it. Or perhaps a mystical aura surrounding the saint’s resting place stayed their hand.
Time was also surprisingly kind to the mausoleum of Sanjar, whom the people deeply revered. Nevertheless, the mausoleum’s appearance has changed, giving it a special, severe beauty. The once azure-blue tiled covering of the huge dome, which you can easily imagine once shone over the city, has flaked off. This changed the “expression” of the architectural structure, revealing the inherent simplicity and austerity woven into its compositional design. It is this austere beauty that gives the mausoleum its unique appeal, as if it holds an ancient secret.
Upon closer inspection of the Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum, it becomes obvious that its architectural design is far from simple as it seems at first glance. It conceals amazing architectural innovations that were centuries ahead of their time. The open arcade crowning the upper edge of the massive smooth walls of the main cube creates an impression of lightness and grace, despite the monumentality of the structure. But the true marvel of engineering, which arouses admiration among modern researchers, is the design of the double shell of the hemispherical dome. This solution actually anticipated the achievements of the great Filippo Brunelleschi and his famous dome of Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence by as much as three centuries! This in itself makes the mausoleum one of the most significant monuments of not only regional but also world architecture. The architectural intuition of the Turkmen architect Muhammad ibn-Atsyz al-Serakhsi (literally “native of Serakhs”), his courage and foresight can rightfully be called brilliant. Unfortunately, very little is known about his life, but his grandiose creation is the best possible tribute to his name.
Experts in Middle Eastern architecture say with admiration: “This monument belongs to that rare category of global architectural masterpieces where the artistic image emerges as an organic synthesis of functional and aesthetic elements. It embodies the hallmarks of true architectural excellence—technical ingenuity, clarity of composition, seamless unity between the whole and its details, and a decor that balances simplicity with harmony.”
According to local legend, Muhammad ibn-Atsyz was not merely a gifted builder, but a visionary—one who could foresee the future of architecture and translate bold ideas into stone. He drew upon secret knowledge passed down through generations of Eastern master craftsmen to create a structure capable of withstanding centuries and the forces of nature.
The mausoleum, rising nearly 40 meters high, is built entirely of fired brick and rests on a formidable foundation. Both its exterior and interior are marked by restrained ornamentation. Particularly striking is the presence of two entrances on opposite walls, which creates a rare sense of openness within the space—setting it apart from later mausoleums of the East. One might say the architect infused this great work with the Turkmen people’s deep-rooted love for open landscapes and freedom, crafting a monumental image of a sphere rising above the city and the plain.
Written sources claim that the blue dome of the mausoleum could be seen “at a distance of a day’s journey”, which emphasizes its importance as a beacon in the endless steppes.
Upon entering the mausoleum, one feels a distinct atmosphere. The white walls seem to emit a soft, reflected light, creating a sense of solemnity and grandeur. In the upper corners, ornamental patterns and a blue epigraphic frieze have been preserved. The restrained painting that extends into the dome features blue and red hues, and it is believed that in earlier times, gold was also used in the decoration.
A legend tells of a sacred moment during the day when the sun reaches its zenith, and something extraordinary occurs. Sunbeams, slipping through hidden gaps in the structure, refract in a unique way, casting a gentle, almost imperceptible glow above the tomb—a radiance that envelops the eternal resting place of the great ruler. Locals believe this is a sign of the Sultan’s spiritual presence, a symbol of his blessing and enduring connection to the land. But only those whose hearts are pure and filled with light can witness it. For them, and only them, the tomb of Sultan Sanjar transforms into a portal to a realm where history and magic merge, revealing the majesty and wisdom of ancient times.
The Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar stands as a testament to the boundless talent of architects from bygone eras and their remarkable ability to weave functionality with profound artistic vision. It is a structure that, even centuries later, continues to captivate with its pristine beauty and ingenious engineering. The mausoleum remains a symbol of Merv’s former grandeur, a silent teacher for all who seek to understand the soul of medieval Eastern architecture, and a guardian of countless legends that live on in the hearts of people, passed down from generation to generation. /// Newspaper “Neutral Turkmenistan”, No. 221-222, 23 August 2025